How to cultivate Brazilian mushrooms

The cultivation season in the province primarily takes place during spring. After 25 days of fermentation, the mushroom strains can be inoculated in a single batch. It typically takes 40 to 50 days for mushrooms to mature. The temperature during this period should be maintained between 20°C and 28°C. For fall cultivation, it is recommended to complete the process by the end of July, with the bacterial culture placed at the beginning of August. Regarding the cultivation material formula, for 100 square meters, you will need 2000 kg of raw materials, with at least 70% being wheat straw. Other straws such as bean straw, Corn stalks, or alternative materials like corn cobs, cotton shells, and weeds should not exceed 30%. The straw must be dry and free from mold. If using corn stalks, they should be cut into 6 to 10 cm sections using a crusher or guillotine. Corn cobs should be crushed into 1 cm diameter particles. Additionally, 750–900 kg of manure, mainly from cattle and sheep, with a small amount of chicken or silkworm droppings, should be used. The manure needs to be clean, without soil or straw, and dried and crushed. If no manure is available, 36 kg of urea can be substituted. Auxiliary materials include 75–85 kg of quicklime, 75 kg of gypsum, 1 kg of magnesium sulfate, 1.5 kg of potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and 50 kg of superphosphate. Next, the heap fermentation process involves pre-wetting the forage two to three days before building the pile. The grass is stacked to a height of 1.2–1.5 meters, watered, and turned over. Once wet, watering stops, and after one to two days, excess water is drained until the grass holds just a few drops when squeezed. One day before building the heap, the manure is mixed with water in a 1:1.2 ratio, ensuring the moisture level is suitable for hand pressure. Overly wet manure may hinder the fermentation process. The heap is then built near the cultivation area, in a sheltered, sunny, and well-drained location. The ground is cleared, and a layer of lime is sprinkled. A 20 cm layer of forage is laid, followed by a 5 cm layer of manure, with lime water sprayed evenly on top. This layering continues until the pile reaches 80–120 cm in height and 120–200 cm in width. The cross-section is trapezoidal, and the length is flexible. If urea is used instead of manure, it should be dissolved in water and added starting from the third layer. The top of the pile is covered with manure to form a turtle-back shape, and the pile is wrapped with straw and plastic film. Shade nets are used during sunny days, and drains are dug around the pile to prevent waterlogging. After construction, the pile's temperature rises to 65°C within five days and reaches 70°C on the sixth day. At this point, the first turning is performed. Gypsum and magnesium sulfate are dissolved in water and sprayed during the turning. The pile is turned every 5, 4, 3, 3, and 2 days thereafter. When the material turns light brown, becomes soft and elastic, with no sour smell but a slight apple-like or lees aroma, and shows some white actinomycetes, it is ready for use. For the mushroom shed setup, the structure should be 4.8 meters wide, 2.5 meters high in the center, and 2.1 meters high on the sides. Two built-in mushroom racks are installed, each 1.3 meters wide, with 0.6 meters of space from the shelf edge. A 1-meter-wide walkway separates the two racks. The central columns are 2.8 meters tall, and side columns are 2.4 meters, buried 0.3 meters underground. Three layers of fruiting shelves are arranged with 0.6 meters spacing, starting 0.3 meters above the ground. The roof is 1 meter above the top layer. Mushroom holders can be made from old rice dumplings or purlins, or constructed with 10 cm square cement columns and coarse iron wire. Columns are spaced 1.5 meters apart, with six bamboo poles along the shed’s length. Bamboo poles are tied horizontally 10–15 cm above the pillars, and shade nets are secured with plastic film. The entire rack is covered with plastic film, which can be sealed tightly for warmth or lifted for ventilation. In summer, black shade nets can be placed 1.5 meters above the roof, with 0.5 meters between layers if double shading is used. Two days before planting, the culture materials are placed in the shed, and the space is fumigated with an aerosol disinfectant. Seeds are sown in three batches, with 3–4 bottles of bacteria per square meter. Each layer of material is spread 8 cm thick, with one bottle of bacteria evenly distributed on top. The vaccinator wears a rubber glove and mixes the material, then flattens and presses it with a wooden board to ensure tight contact. The top layer should have slightly more bacteria and be covered with a thin layer of culture material. After compaction, the total thickness should be about 20 cm, with a plastic sheet covering the material for insulation and moisture retention. If using fermented manure-based strains, the hole sowing method is recommended. Bacteria are formed into egg-sized clumps for storage. The culture material is spread on a net rack, 20 cm thick, and "pig" shapes are created to dig sowing holes. Each hole is 10 cm deep and spaced 10 cm apart. The bacteria clump is placed inside, covered with surrounding material, and lightly pressed. After sowing, 1/4 of the remaining bacteria is spread evenly, covered with another layer of culture material, and compacted. A cover film is then applied.

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