In the first place, improper timing of pruning can be problematic. Pruning too early in autumn contradicts the intention of encouraging strong growth through early trimming, while pruning too late fails to control the tree's growth, leading to poor light penetration and unnecessary nutrient consumption. To improve this, it is recommended to perform topping and retraction after the autumn shoots have stopped growing, ideally 30 days before leaf fall. Branches can be pruned from summer to autumn as long as they are still actively growing—prune them whenever they sprout. However, for branches older than one year, removal should be done carefully based on the situation. The "cap" technique should be applied 25 days after the autumn tip has emerged, and branch angles should be adjusted once the autumn shoots have largely stopped growing. This applies primarily to the main branches of the current year.
Secondly, over-pruning during the "cap" technique can be an issue. Any autumn cut, regardless of the type of shoot, often results in excessive pruning at the junctions between spring and autumn shoots or between first- and second-year branches. This leads to overly vigorous growth, creating a "lion’s head" effect, which not only fails to slow down the tree’s growth but actually encourages more vigorous development. To address this, for new shoots on varieties like Fuji or Golden Delicious, the "cap" method should be used at the blind spots near the junctions of spring and autumn shoots. Additionally, some vigorous side branches can be trimmed at their base. However, the main branches and extension shoots are generally not suitable for this technique. During actual pruning, it's important to note that strong auxiliary branches should be capped, while weaker long branches and average trees should receive minimal or no capping. Moreover, all types of main branches and extension tips should typically avoid the "cap" method.
Thirdly, when the inner branches are too sparse and light cannot pass through the autumn branches, only the internal warts and sprouting branches from large cuts are removed, while other branches remain untouched. This results in a dense canopy, poor light penetration, and negatively affects flowering and fruit coloring. To improve this, in mid-September, remove and prune ineffective, overlapping, crossing, leggy, and competing branches within the tree. Focus on clearing out internal litchi and annual branches, without over-pruning. Twenty days before harvest, trim or remove overhanging, mop-like, and periphytic branches on the upper part of the tree as needed. Ensure that the diameter of any pruning or cutting does not exceed 3 cm.
Pizza Oven
Pizza ovens, as the name suggests, are primarily used for baking pizzas. It not only ensures that the pizza reaches the ideal degree of doneness in a short time, but also makes the crust of the pizza crisp and keeps the interior soft and moist, thus enhancing the overall taste and quality of the pizza. In addition, the pizza oven also has a variety of functions, such as roast meat, roast chicken wings, roast steak, etc., so it is widely used in pizza shops, bakery shops, burger restaurants, western restaurants and other places.
The working principle of the pizza oven is mainly based on hot air or high temperature heat source to bake the pizza. Depending on the type of pizza oven, it works differently. For example, a traditional pizza cellar oven uses wood or coal as a heat source to bake the pizza over a high flame. Modern pizza ovens may use more efficient and environmentally friendly heating methods such as electric heating, natural gas or air heating principles. Regardless of the type of pizza oven, the core goal of the pizza oven is to ensure that the pizza is heated evenly for optimal cooking results.
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