The site for site preparation and selection should be warm, humid, sunny, well-drained, loose, rich in organic matter, and preferably slightly acidic loam or sandy loam. Neutral soils can also be used for potted plants. For potting, acidic or neutral soils are suitable, while peat-based mixes or composts enriched with phosphate fertilizers are commonly used as growing media.
Breeding methods mainly rely on cuttings and high air layering.
(1) **Cutting Propagation**: Before spring, select mature, non-budding shoots from the previous year, cut them into 10 cm sections, and plant them in a propagation bed with leaves still attached. Water thoroughly, cover with a plastic film, keep the environment moist, and place it in a semi-shaded area. Maintain humidity at around 95% and a temperature of about 28°C. Summer is typically the best time for cuttings due to naturally high temperatures and humidity. With proper care, roots usually develop within 50 days. Soaking the cuttings in solutions like naphthalene acetic acid, butyric acid, or vitamin B12 can enhance root development and survival rates. After one month, transplant the rooted cuttings into pots and allow them to grow for 2–3 years before moving them to their final location.
(2) **High Air Layering Method**: This technique is ideal for potted plants. In spring or summer, choose 1–2-year-old shoots with a diameter of 2–5 cm, and make a ring cut 6–9 cm from the branch point. The incision should be slightly dried before wrapping it with moist soil, moss, vermiculite, or a mix of loam and cow dung. Cover the wrapped area with plastic film and keep it consistently moist by watering regularly. After about two months, check for root formation and continue watering. After 3–4 months, the new plant can be cut from the mother plant and potted or transplanted.
(3) In warmer regions, rice plants can be planted directly in the ground, but most are grown in pots. Pots should be placed between spring and summer. The soil should be fertile, consisting of 25% decomposed leaf litter, 50% compost, and 25% river sand, ensuring good drainage. A small amount of well-rotted cake fertilizer or slightly alkaline soil can be added. Peat soil mixed with phosphate compost is also an excellent choice. When planting in pots, water thoroughly after transplanting. Avoid watering for the next two weeks to encourage new root growth, and protect the plant from direct sunlight during this period.
Field management involves applying liquid fertilizer every 10–15 days after transplanting, using diluted manure mixed with ferrous sulfate. Spray the leaves with room-temperature water before sunset to maintain humidity. During spring, when growth is vigorous, ensure adequate water and high humidity. In autumn, gradually reduce watering to maintain moderate moisture. Keep the foliage clean by rinsing with room-temperature water if dust accumulates. In winter, maintain a temperature of 10–12°C. When temperatures reach 18°C, the plant can grow and flower normally. At this stage, water every 2–3 days and apply some liquid fertilizer. Avoid overwatering when temperatures drop below 12°C. Only water when the soil feels slightly dry. Do not expose the plant to direct sunlight when bringing it indoors in spring. Allow it to acclimate gradually. Since magnolia flowers develop from new shoots, pruning is generally unnecessary unless the plant’s shape is unsatisfactory, in which case trimming can be done after flowering.
Diseases and pests are relatively rare in magnolia plants, but prevention is key. Common pests include aphids and leaf rollers. Red spider mites and scale insects may also appear, so good ventilation is important. If infestations occur, spray with 1000–2000 times dilution of dimethoate or 100–150 times dilution of oil emulsion. For sooty mold, use 500–1000 times dilution of carbendazim. Regular monitoring and prompt action can help keep the plant healthy.
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